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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.